By Rafal Kosciuszkiewicz, Founder, 365 Construction
Published: October 26, 2026
Updated: October 27, 2026
Estimated reading time: 9 minutes
Key Takeaways
- Find and seal drafts before adding insulation. Air leaks can make rooms feel cold even when the furnace is running.
- Check attic hatches, exterior-wall outlets, windows, doors, and basement rim joists for air leakage.
- Keep insulation dry, and make sure air sealing, vapour control, and ventilation work together.
- Maintain the furnace, keep vents clear, and use carbon monoxide detectors in homes with fuel-burning equipment.
- Match indoor humidity to the outdoor temperature. In deep cold, lower it further to keep frost off windows.
- Some work belongs with professionals: fuel-burning equipment, spray foam, vermiculite, knob-and-tube wiring and electrical.
Saskatoon homes face long stretches of cold weather, and small gaps in the building envelope can make rooms uncomfortable when the temperature drops. A drafty house, cold basement or uneven heating is not always a furnace problem. Air leakage, thin insulation and cold window surfaces may also be part of it.
If you’re planning broader work, our Saskatoon home renovation cost guide can help with early budgeting. Owners of older houses can also use our old-home renovation checklist to spot issues that may be worth addressing before finishes are replaced.
Table of Contents
- Why a Home Can Feel Cold
- Find the Drafts Before Making Changes
- Air Seal First, Then Review Insulation
- Make Windows and Floors More Comfortable
- Keep the Heating System and Ventilation Working
- Manage Indoor Humidity for the Weather
- Plan Comfort Upgrades Ahead
- When to Call a Professional
- Frequently Asked Questions
Why a Home Can Feel Cold
When outdoor temperatures stay well below freezing, a few weak points can affect comfort throughout the house. Cold air may enter around doors, windows, attic hatches and exterior-wall outlets. Heat can also escape through poorly insulated attics, basement walls and rim joists — the perimeter area where the house framing meets the foundation.
Older or single-pane windows can feel cold because their inside surfaces lose heat quickly. You may notice discomfort near the glass even if there is no obvious draft. Dry winter air can add to the feeling of discomfort, but humidifying the home will not fix a leak or cold surface.
The useful first step is to identify where air is moving and which areas of the house are losing heat. That helps you choose repairs that improve comfort rather than simply covering the symptoms.
Find the Drafts Before Making Changes
On a windy day, move a hand slowly around likely leak points and notice where you feel moving air. A light tissue held near a gap can also show air movement. An incense stick can make a subtle draft easier to see, but use it carefully, keep it away from flammable materials and never use an open flame for this test.
Check:
- The edges and latch side of exterior doors, including the door sweep at the bottom.
- Window frames, trim and the joints between the frame and wall.
- Baseboards along exterior walls.
- Outlet and switch plates on exterior walls.
- The attic hatch, especially around its edges.
- The basement rim joist and places where pipes or wires pass through.
A draft check does not measure total heat loss, and some gaps are hidden inside walls or ceilings. If the source is unclear or the house has persistent comfort problems, a qualified energy advisor can help identify where improvements may have the most effect.
Air Seal First, Then Review Insulation
Air sealing means closing gaps that let indoor air escape and outdoor air enter. It is often a sensible first step because insulation works best when it is installed in a reasonably airtight, dry assembly.
Depending on the location and material, simple repairs may include:
- Replacing worn weatherstripping and fitting door sweeps.
- Caulking suitable gaps around window trim and other stationary joints.
- Installing approved gaskets behind outlet plates on exterior walls.
- Adding a snug, insulated seal around the attic hatch.
Do not seal ventilation openings, combustion-air openings or appliance vents. Work around fuel-burning equipment needs care. Spray foam at basement rim joists also requires the right product and installation details. Foam can affect fire safety and must be used in a way that complies with applicable requirements. Have a professional assess this work rather than choosing a product by convenience alone.
After air leaks are addressed, assess insulation. Attic insulation may need topping up, while basements and crawl spaces can be uncomfortable where insulation is missing, damaged or damp. Keep insulation dry: wet material performs poorly and can hide moisture problems.
In older homes, check what is already there before disturbing or topping up attic insulation. Vermiculite insulation, common in attics before 1990, can contain asbestos and should be tested and handled only by trained professionals. The same caution applies to knob-and-tube wiring, an early electrical method sometimes buried in attic and wall insulation. Our old-home renovation checklist covers both hazards in more detail.
A vapour barrier is a layer that limits moisture moving into parts of a wall or ceiling. In a cold-climate assembly, its location and continuity matter. It is commonly placed on the warm side of the insulation, but the right detail depends on the existing construction and renovation scope. Adding insulation without first understanding air leakage and moisture movement can produce limited benefits or create problems inside the assembly.
For guidance on assessing existing insulation and air leaks, see Natural Resources Canada’s Keeping the Heat In resource.
Make Windows and Floors More Comfortable
If replacing windows is not practical right away, interior window film can be a temporary measure, and storm windows may improve comfort when they are suitable for the existing windows. Heavy curtains can reduce the chill near glass, but keep them clear of heating registers and follow any appliance safety instructions.
Condensation or frost on a window is useful information. It can indicate that the inside glass is cold, indoor humidity is high for the outdoor conditions, or both. Wipe up excess moisture and adjust humidity before it damages trim or surrounding surfaces.
Cold floors can come from an uninsulated basement or crawl space, air leakage at the floor perimeter, or a cold slab. Area rugs are a simple comfort measure. If you are renovating, basement insulation or heated flooring may be worth considering as part of a properly planned floor assembly.
Keep the Heating System and Ventilation Working
Change or clean your furnace filter according to the equipment instructions. In heating season, checking it every one to three months is a useful routine, though some filters and homes need more frequent attention. SaskEnergy’s winter heating tips recommend checking filters regularly, keeping vents clear and having the heating system maintained by a qualified professional. Book furnace service before the coldest stretch if possible.
Keep supply registers and return-air grilles clear of furniture, rugs and drapes so air can circulate. A programmable thermostat can make it easier to set a consistent schedule. Avoid a large setback if it could leave plumbing vulnerable to freezing or create moisture concerns.
Homes with fuel-burning equipment should have working carbon monoxide detectors installed in the appropriate locations. Have fuel-burning appliances serviced by a qualified technician. Gas and electrical work belongs with licensed trades.
Ventilation also matters in a tightly sealed home. Use bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans to remove moisture and odours, and make sure the fans discharge outdoors. An HRV, or heat recovery ventilator, brings in fresh outdoor air while transferring some heat from outgoing stale air to the incoming air. It helps balance ventilation and heat loss, but its filters and core need maintenance. Follow the equipment instructions and seek professional advice if airflow or humidity is difficult to manage.
Manage Indoor Humidity for the Weather
A hygrometer measures indoor relative humidity. The right setting depends on how cold it is outside: the colder the weather, the lower the indoor humidity needs to be to keep condensation and frost off your windows.
| Outdoor temperature | Suggested indoor relative humidity |
|---|---|
| Around 0°C to −10°C | 35–40% |
| Around −10°C to −20°C | 30–35% |
| Around −20°C to −30°C | 20–30% |
| Below −30°C | 15–20% |
These ranges are planning guidance based on public guidance from CMHC, Natural Resources Canada and SaskEnergy, and they are not a fixed rule. Older windows, heavy curtains, and rooms with less air movement all condense sooner, so treat your own windows as the final indicator: if frost or persistent condensation appears, lower the humidifier setting and investigate.
A portable humidifier can help a dry room, while a whole-home humidifier serves more of the house. Both need regular cleaning and correct operation. Humidity should also be managed through ventilation: run bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans when producing moisture, and keep an HRV maintained if the home has one. The goal is balanced comfort without allowing moisture to collect on cold surfaces.
Plan Comfort Upgrades Ahead
Winter is a practical time to note which rooms are uncomfortable and plan spring work. Keep a short list of drafts, cold floors, window condensation and rooms that heat unevenly. That information can help prioritize a site assessment and make a renovation scope more specific.
The City of Saskatoon’s winter home preparation guide covers seasonal checks around the home. For insulation, ventilation or building-envelope work, verify current requirements and seek qualified advice for the details of your house.
If comfort upgrades are part of a larger project, review our Saskatoon home renovation planning guide. A project review can help determine whether air sealing, insulation or other work should happen before new finishes.
When to Call a Professional
Some winter comfort work is a good weekend task, but several parts of it are better left to qualified people:
- Any work around fuel-burning equipment — furnaces, water heaters and fireplaces. Combustion air, venting and carbon monoxide safety are not areas for trial and error, and gas work belongs with licensed trades.
- Spray foam at rim joists or in walls. The product selection, thickness and fire protection details matter, and mistakes are expensive to undo.
- Suspected vermiculite insulation or knob-and-tube wiring. Both require assessment and handling by trained professionals before any insulation is disturbed.
- Electrical work, including adding outlets, upgrading service or correcting wiring, should be done by a licensed electrician.
- Persistent condensation, ice on windows, moisture on walls, or a home that never feels comfortable despite air sealing. These can point to ventilation or envelope issues that need proper diagnosis before spending on upgrades.
- Large insulation, window or ventilation projects, where proper measurement, product selection and installation affect whether the investment actually performs.
A site assessment from a qualified contractor or energy advisor takes the guesswork out of the sequence: what to seal, what to insulate, and what to leave until a bigger project.
Contact us. As a home renovation company, we can take care of it all, from air sealing and insulation to windows and ventilation.
Frequently Asked Questions
What should I do first to make my home more comfortable in winter?
Start by finding drafts around doors, windows, outlets, attic hatches and basement rim joists. Seal suitable leaks, then assess insulation and furnace airflow. This order helps address heat loss before you invest in larger upgrades.
How much does it cost to improve winter home comfort?
The main cost drivers are the scope of air sealing, the amount and location of insulation, window condition, and the ventilation system. Weatherstripping, door sweeps and caulking are the low end of the range, outlet gaskets and attic-hatch sealing sit just above that, while professional air sealing, attic insulation top-ups, basement insulation, and window or HRV work make up the mid to upper end. The size of the home, access to the work area, the age of the wiring and insulation, and concealed moisture all move the number. Our home renovation cost guide explains how these projects are priced, and a written, itemized estimate is the only fair way to compare bids.
How long do comfort upgrades take?
Weatherstripping, caulking and outlet gaskets are usually a same-day job, attic insulation top-ups are typically a day or two, and professional air sealing, basement insulation or window and ventilation projects are measured in days to a couple of weeks. The schedule also includes the steps before work starts: assessment, product selection and lead times for materials. Insulation, ventilation and envelope work in the depths of winter can involve extra scheduling considerations, so ask for a project-specific schedule in writing before work begins.
What indoor humidity should I keep in winter?
Roughly 35–40% when it is near 0°C to −10°C outside, 30–35% between −10°C and −20°C, 20–30% between −20°C and −30°C, and 15–20% below −30°C. These are planning ranges based on guidance from CMHC, Natural Resources Canada and SaskEnergy, not fixed rules. Use a hygrometer to monitor, and treat your windows as the final check: frost or persistent condensation means the setting is too high for the current conditions.
Can I add insulation without air sealing?
You can, but the improvement may be limited if air continues to move through gaps. Air sealing and insulation should be considered together, while keeping moisture control and ventilation in mind.
Should I replace windows if they feel cold?
Not necessarily. First check for drafts, failed seals and window condition. Storm windows, temporary window film or curtains may help in some situations. Replacement makes more sense when windows are damaged, poorly performing or part of a broader renovation plan.
A comfortable winter home starts with preparation: find the weak points, address air leakage, keep insulation dry and maintain the heating and ventilation systems. Learn more about our home renovation services in Saskatoon, and if you are planning a wider update, a clear assessment is a sensible next step toward better comfort and peace of mind.